The Road to Italy

While Paul Smith is a quintessentially British institution, the brand’s eclectic personality could only be the result of Paul’s fascination with other cultures. Be it the deep kinship he feels with Japanese life, his love of American art and music, or the influence the German Bauhaus school had on him as a young man, there is an international feel to all things Paul Smith.

However, there’s arguably one country that’s had more influence on Paul Smith – the man and the company – than any other, and that country is Italy. Since very early on in the brand’s history, Paul has been visiting Italian mills and makers, sourcing the most exquisite fabrics and finding the most talented craftspeople to help him realise his unique vision for men’s tailoring. “When we first started out, all my clothes were made in Great Britain, because my quantities were so small, and I could find a little factory that would make 20 of this or 30 of that,” Paul explains. “At the time, especially in tailored garments, the fabrics were quite heavy, and the British factories could really handle tweeds and heavier fabrics easily. But as the trend came towards lightweight fabrics, I found that the British were not used to having a very fine needle and stitching in this more cautious, more careful way. And so I started to research the idea of working with Italian factories, and I was privileged to be able to find some factories that were willing to work with young designers, in very small quantities.”

Paul Smith quickly began producing all of its suits in Italy – using Italian fabrics predominantly from the north-west of the country – followed by knitwear, shirts, shoes, and leather goods. From that early turning point right up until today, Italian makers have played a pivotal role in shaping the brand, and today we find ourselves in a particularly Italian frame of mind, as we gear up for an exciting new phase in the history of Paul Smith. Next week will see our return to Pitti Uomo, the world-famous fashion fair which takes place in Florence twice a year. It marks a change from our usual catwalk show in Paris each season, replacing the spectacle of those events with a more personal touch.

Image 1. Paul and his wife Pauline in Italy, 1972.

Image 2. A look from our AW97 collection, featuring a suit crafted in Italy.

Image 3. Another look from AW97, also made in Italy.

Image 4. Paul with his mountain bike at his home in Tuscany, 1996.

Image 5. An eye-catching, iridescent look from SS97, tailored in Italy.

Image 6. Another Italian made suit from our SS97 collection.

Image 7. Bold pattern was the order of the day for SS98.